Real Estate in Steamboat

Q: We are remodeling a 35-year-old home that has a nice brick fireplace. The previous owner used it to burn paper and other low-temperature items that produced a lot of smoke, resulting in a very heavy and unattractive buildup of carbon and soot. Worse, the owner used off-white, wall-color-matching, latex paint on the outside part (yes, right on the bricks) of the fireplace.

What must I do to restore some of the natural color and texture of the original brickwork? Sandblasting? Chemicals? Small bombs? And, what type of professional service should I engage to tackle this work, if you feel that “sweat equity” will not suffice?

A: Chemical stripping won’t work very well, and we suspect that you had your tongue planted firmly in cheek when you mentioned a small bomb. The alternative we’d suggest is sandblasting.

We wouldn’t take on a sandblasting job, especially an inside one. The preparation is intense and the cleanup of sand and leavings will be significant. Also, a deft touch with the wand is necessary to avoid gouging out too much mortar while trying to get rid of the paint. It’s a job better left to the pros.

To find someone to tackle the job, we suggest you check the Yellow Pages. Call several blasters to see if they can do the job and get references. That’s the route we’d go.

But you might want to consider another alternative to sandblasting — refacing.

Our brother Bryan has a fireplace project going at his home in Eagle, Idaho. He just ordered a wood-burning, energy-efficient fireplace to replace an antiquated, poorly designed woodstove. Every time he tried to start a fire in the stove, he got smoked out.

When the workers removed the old stove, the flue opening was plugged with what Bryan said looked like a couple of deflated footballs, made of creosote. Needless to say, this is a serious fire hazard. If you haven’t already done so, we recommend you employ a good chimney sweep to get your chimney in “fire shape.”

Bryan’s fireplace is faced with used brick. He doesn’t like the look. Uncle George suggested — you guessed it — white paint. That isn’t flying with Bryan. So Kevin suggested he consider refacing the brick with stone, tile or marble. In your case, consider following Kevin’s recommendation and refacing with brick. It would be a lot less messy than sandblasting; you could choose the look you want; and it’s definitely a do-it-yourself project.

If you decide to go this route, choose a veneer brick. It’s thinner — 3/8 to 3/4 inches thick — and much lighter and easier to work with. It has all of the warmth of brick without the heft. For examples and more information, go to www.artobrick.com.

Q: I would like to reuse the ceramic floor tiles from my kitchen remodel (putting old tiles at the kickboard onto new cabinets). How do I get the mastic off the tiles? I’ve tried soaking, but that hasn’t worked. Should I try muriatic acid?

A: We bet you’ve soaked them in water. That won’t soften and remove the mastic, as you’ve discovered. Muriatic acid will work only on cement-based mortar. Instead, we suggest soaking the tiles in lacquer thinner followed by a good scraping with a wide putty knife and a scrub with a wire brush. Do the job outside, and wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator because the fumes from the solvent are strong and can burn skin and mucous membranes.

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Copyright 2007 Bill and Kevin Burnett

Dear Barry,

From time to time, your column addresses the subject of asbestos, and you sometimes refer to building materials as “possibly containing asbestos.” As a home inspector, I’ve always tried to avoid “might be” types of wording with my customers. My reports state that “there was a time when asbestos building materials were used,” but I always follow this by explaining that “the only way you can verify asbestos content is by testing the material.” Don’t you think that home inspectors should avoid suggesting what “could possibly be contained” in various materials, especially regarding hazardous substances that are outside the scope of a home inspection? –Bernie

Dear Bernie,

Without question, home inspectors should not identify materials as “asbestos-containing” without the support of laboratory analysis. But materials such as acoustic ceiling texture and transite cement are commonly known, even among nonprofessionals, to be asbestos-containing in many instances. For a home inspector to say that such materials “possibly contain asbestos” does not seem to be overreaching. This, of course, is a personal opinion, and has long been a point of heated discussion among home inspectors.

Those who oppose asbestos-related comments of this kind are concerned primarily with liability. According to their view, inspectors who comment on conditions that are outside the scope of a home inspection (such as asbestos materials) can no longer deny responsibility for other issues that are outside the scope of an inspection, such as problems involving structural engineering, water quality or geological stability.

The other side of the controversy is also based on liability concerns, but from a different perspective. When home inspectors say nothing about possible asbestos content, they can be sued for nondisclosure, even though such disclosures are outside the scope of the inspection. For example, home inspectors have been named in lawsuits against termite inspectors, even in states where they are precluded by law from making termite-related disclosures. If court rulings were always fair, inspectors could expect to win such cases. But judicial fairness is never guarantied, and even if it were, the cost of justice is heavily punctuated with dollar signs. A home inspector can win the case but lose on court costs and attorney fees. Those of us with this view would rather tell a customer that there might be asbestos than be sued when asbestos is discovered after the close of escrow.

In the final analysis, this is a business decision that each inspector must make. Basically, we’re damned if we disclose, and damned if we don’t. It’s a choice between one form of risk or the other. In this inspector’s view, the better choice is disclosure.

Dear Barry,

We are presently buying a 20-year-old home. The roof has never been replaced, and our home inspector reported apparent hail damage. An insurance claim may have been filed at one time, but no evidence of repair work was reported. How can I check into this? –Michael

Dear Michael,

The sellers should be asked to provide copies of all roof-related documents as part of their disclosure statement. If they have ever filed a claim with their insurance company or received a contractor’s repair bid, copies should be provided. And based upon your home inspector’s findings, you should request further evaluation by a licensed roofing contractor.

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Copyright 2007 Barry Stone

Q: I have some dark, blotchy areas appearing on my white vinyl flooring. The flooring is 18 years old, and I’ve been told that the glue is turning dark. Can I clean it, or is it time for a new floor? –Barbara D.

A: In my experience, dark staining that appears below the surface of a vinyl floor is most commonly associated with water damage, such as a leak from an appliance or around a toilet. The water spreads out below the surface of the vinyl, which is waterproof so it won’t allow the water to migrate to the surface, and then the staining appears. It’s also possible that, as you were told, the glue itself has become discolored, but that’s not as common.

In either case, it’s going to be time for a new floor. Of greater importance, however, is that you have the floor checked to see if moisture is present. If it is, then the source needs to be tracked down and taken care of as quickly as possible. I would suggest that you contact an insurance restoration contractor in your area — check the Yellow Pages under “water,” or ask your homeowner’s insurance agent for a recommendation. They are equipped with moisture meters that can check for hidden moisture, and they’ll advise you accordingly. There may be a small service charge for them to come out, which most will credit back to you if you have them do the repairs.

Q: I am thinking about remodeling my kitchen, and I have heard the terms “partial” and “full” kitchen remodel. Can you tell me what the difference is? –Chris P.

A: As a general rule of thumb, a complete kitchen remodel typically includes new cabinets, new counters, new appliances, new plumbing fixtures and new flooring. There are usually electrical wiring changes involved, and sometimes structural changes as well. There is often a change in the overall layout or work patterns of the cabinets and appliances, and a complete remodel will also almost always require a building permit.

Partial kitchen remodels are usually considered more of a facelift. They may include painting or re-facing existing cabinets, changing counters, new flooring, and maybe a new sink or the replacement of a single appliance. There is no change in the kitchen’s layout; no wiring or structural changes are involved; and usually a building permit is not required.

Q: What can you tell me about the pros and cons of “real stucco”? We are considering using it on the front of the house, and are being told that it is durable and weather resistant. –Annette S.

A: In recent years, a number of synthetic or “engineered” stucco systems have come on the market, with varying amounts of success. Incorrectly applied, synthetic stucco can lead to some potentially serious water intrusion problems. As a result, the traditional method of stucco construction has now come to be known as “real,” “traditional” or “conventional” stucco.

Traditional stucco is a mixture of Portland cement, sand, lime and water, sometimes with other additives. It is usually applied in a three-coat process. First, waterproof paper and some type of wire mesh are applied over the exterior of the house, and a first coat of stucco is toweled on and left rough. The first coat is pressed hard against the wire mesh so that the mesh becomes embedded in it, and this is what gives the finished coating much of its strength.

The first coat is allowed to dry, then a second coat is toweled on, evening out the walls. This second coat is “scratched” as it dries to provide a good base for the third coat to bond with. The third and final coat of stucco is often mixed with dry powdered colors to give it a finish color that does not require painting, and it is toweled on in a variety of different texture patterns. Any traditional stucco, even if it’s pre-colored, can also be painted after it is completely dry.

Traditional stucco has been around for a long time, and when correctly installed it is a strong, long-lasting exterior finish that should remain pretty much trouble-free for decades. It needs to be applied correctly by an experienced contractor, and with proper care given to preventing water intrusion. As far as drawbacks are concerned, if it cures too quickly in hot weather it can be somewhat prone to cracking, and the same is true if the house settles or shifts a lot. It can also be somewhat difficult to patch if you have remodeling work done, such as replacing doors or windows.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.

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Copyright 2007 Inman News

DEAR BENNY: Our neighbor is planning on drilling a well and putting in an irrigation system. They have asked us if we would like to install an irrigation system and if so, would we like to tap into their well and help pay for it. Our neighbors across the street have a similar arrangement. The neighbors that have the well on their property pay for the electricity, and any repairs are paid for by the others that use the well. That sounds fine, but what needs to be done to make sure this agreement and our ability to use the well continues if our neighbor decides to sell their house? –Sue B.

DEAR SUE: You should enter into a written agreement, spelling out all terms and conditions, and have that agreement notarized and recorded on the land records in the county where your neighbor’s house is located. The agreement should also state that unless terminated by both parties, the agreement will apply to “successors and assigns.” This document will be recorded against your neighbor’s property. By recording, this puts the entire world on notice of your agreement. I do, however, recommend that you have your attorney draft the agreement.

DEAR BENNY: The Mrs. and I are looking to purchase our first home. Given this market, what advice both legally and financially would you give to a couple of first-time buyers? –Gary

DEAR GARY: Wow! I could write at least two books on this subject. Perhaps the first place I would start my research is with Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. Have you ever heard of them? They are financial institutions that do not make loans, but assist consumers and lenders in the home-buying process. They both have excellent websites with a lot of consumer information on how to buy a home.

I would also find a good real estate attorney in the county where you live (or want to buy) and have him or her walk you through the various steps. Once you find the house that is of interest to you, have your attorney review (or prepare) the sales contract before you sign it. You should also talk with a couple of mortgage lenders (make sure they are licensed in your state) to determine approximately how large a loan you will be able to obtain.

Is this a good time to buy? Who knows? Will the market go up or down? Again, who knows? But I have told my clients over the years that you don’t buy a house for investment purposes; you buy because you want a solid roof over your head in a neighborhood you like. If the house does increase in value, more power to you.

And, Gary, I suggest you and your wife continue to read the Mailbag column, as I am sure that I will be answering a lot more questions similar to yours in the coming months.

DEAR BENNY: My wife and I plan to move to Fort Myers, Fla., in two years when I retire at age 62. On a recent house-hunting trip to that area, we saw lots of homes for sale. We own our home in New York, which will be sold. Due to the current real estate slump in value, please give me your advice on how to time the market. –Paul

DEAR PAUL: For many years, I had a crystal ball on my desk. Now, I have two and still cannot predict the future.

From what I understand, this is a good time to buy property in Florida. Are you able to afford to buy that new house without selling your current one? Depending on your financial situation, you may be able to obtain a bridge loan on your house to enable you to buy the other one.

If, on the other hand, you cannot financially carry two houses, then you will most likely have to sell your present house first. And while in some parts of the country it’s a buyer’s market, you may find that you will get a good deal on the new Florida property but a not-so-good deal on your present home.

If you cannot move down to Florida now, you might try to find a buyer who will rent your house back to you. This way, while you will have to pay rent, you will not have to pay PITI (principal, interest, taxes and insurance). And the sales proceeds can be used to purchase that Florida property. If you are lucky, you can rent that property out, which will somewhat offset the rent you have to pay on your present property.

DEAR BENNY: Are there any Internet sites that can give me a north, south, east and west aerial view of a house that I am interested in buying? –Phil

DEAR PHIL: For fear of alienating what I understand are many Web sites that show aerial pictures of real estate, I suggest that you go to your favorite Internet search engine and type in either “property maps” or “aerial maps”; I just did that and found quite a few for me to choose.

DEAR BENNY: I am a first-time home buyer. My husband and I have a credit rating above 750. I make about $95K a year and my husband makes about $35K, except that he gets paid by cash, so his boss will sign a letter indicating what he makes a year and submit it to the bank.

We plan on purchasing a two-family house for $540K with a seller’s concession of $20K. The total mortgage would be $560K with a 5 percent down payment. I asked my lender if we can get one mortgage for $532K. He said that the PMI would be high and that it would benefit us if we take out two separate mortgages in order to eliminate the PMI. They call this an 80-15 arrangement. The first mortgage will be 80 percent at a fixed rate of 6.375 percent (locked in) and the other 15 percent at a rate of 8 percent, except that I cannot lock it in until the last four days of the closing. Why can’t I lock in the rate now; why do I have to wait until the closing? Is this a good deal? It sure doesn’t feel like it is.

He said that if something happens to the lender then we would be covered on 15 percent of the loan because of the PMI. Why not 100 percent covered in one loan? How much of a difference will we be paying a mortgage if we take one mortgage? He also said that even though we have good credit and make good money together that the current rate of 4.75 percent is only for people that had bad credit and are involved with the subprime lenders. Is that true? Please help? I really do appreciate your advice. –L.M.

DEAR L.M.: I am very confused and unfortunately I believe you are also. First, if the purchase price is $540,000 with the seller giving you a credit of $20,000, I seriously doubt that you can get a loan for $560,000.

Second, I do not understand why your lender cannot lock in the second trust (the one for 15 percent of the purchase price.

Third, it makes no sense to me that a subprime mortgage for people with bad credit would be lower than a loan for people with good credit like you and your husband.

My strong suggestion: Get a second opinion from another mortgage lender. Something does not sound right.

Benny L. Kass is a practicing attorney in Washington, D.C., and Maryland. Questions for this column can be submitted to benny@inman.com.

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Copyright 2007 Benny L. Kass

Should you invest a good sum of money in your home if housing prices in your area are flat or declining? When home prices are escalating, adding more money to an asset that’s increasing rapidly in value is a no-brainer. But given current market conditions, it’s more important to consider the financial ramification of a renovation before giving your contractor the green light.

First, find out how much the anticipated project will cost. Then add 10 to 20 percent for cost overruns. The next step is to figure out how much your home would be worth after you complete the improvements.

The market value of renovations varies from one area to the next. According to Remodeling magazine’s Cost Versus Value Index for 2006, a mid-range basement renovation — in terms of cost and finishes — returned on average approximately 80 percent of the cost when the home was sold.

For comparative purposes, the basement renovation used in the Remodeling report consisted of a 20-by-30-foot entertainment room with a wet bar and bathroom. To determine the return on investment, Remodeling, in conjunction with the National Association of Realtors, relied on data compiled from a survey of Realtors.

Even though the national average return on the basement renovations was only 80 percent, a comparable job in San Francisco returned 112.7 percent of the cost. So consult with a knowledgeable local Realtor to determine how much the improvement you are contemplating will increase the market value of your home.

Investment potential is just one variable to consider when weighing whether to improve your home and how much to spend. Quality of life is a major consideration. Generally, the longer you plan to stay in your home, the more it makes sense to make improvements that will make your home more user-friendly. However, keep in mind that a basic rule of investing in real estate is to avoid overimproving for the neighborhood.

HOMEOWNER TIP: To get the most out of a major renovation, make sure that the work is done with building permits. Sellers and contractors often proceed with major renovations without taking out the appropriate permits, either to save time or money. This might not matter to you if the work is done well and in accordance with building-code requirements, but it could come back to bite you when you sell.

Appraisal standards have tightened recently along with credit standards. Today, an appraiser might not count a basement conversion as livable square feet unless the homeowner could show that the work had been done with permit. This in turn could result in an appraisal for lower than the buyer agreed to pay if you represented that the den added value as livable square feet.

When the market is racing upwards, a low appraisal won’t necessarily cause a deal to fall apart. But, in today’s environment, an appraisal for less than the purchase price could cause a buyer to renegotiate the price, or back out, if the seller isn’t willing to take less and the purchase contract includes an appraisal contingency.

It’s quite common to find basements that were finished without permits. Sellers should take care how they market such improvements to a prospective buyer. In California, state law requires buyers to disclose if work was done without permit. Misrepresenting livable square feet can have serious legal consequences. Rather than take that risk, make sure the buyers know exactly what they are buying.

THE CLOSING: It’s prudent to be conservative when representing the livable square feet of your home. Sellers have ended up in court over disputes about square footage.

Dian Hymer is author of “House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers” and “Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer’s Guide,” Chronicle Books.

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Copyright 2007 Dian Hymer

(This is Part 2 of a two-part series. Read Part 1, “Too much equity can deny homeowners loan mods.”)

The first article in this series pointed out that when a mortgage borrower is unable to make the required payments, the servicing agent has an obligation to the owner of the mortgage to resolve the problem in the way that is least costly to the owner. The usual method is foreclosure, but an alternative is to modify the loan contract to make the payment more affordable.

In making their decisions, loan servicers usually ignore an asset possessed by the borrower that could shift it from foreclosure to modification. This asset is the right to a share of the future appreciation in the value of the borrower’s house.

To make the decision process easier, I have designed a new calculator, numbered 7e on my Web site. The calculator compares the cost of a subsidy provided under a contract modification to the estimated value of a share of the appreciation, over any future period up to 10 years. Because costs are incurred monthly while appreciation is realized at the end of a period, all figures are translated into present values to make them comparable.

For example, in 2005, John Subprime took out a 2-year adjustable-rate mortgage for $100,000 at 5 percent. It was a 100 percent loan, but the balance had been paid down to $97,237. The initial payment of $537 was affordable, but lasts only two years.

The interest rate will be reset in two months to equal the value of the rate index, currently 5 percent, plus a margin of 3 percent. If the index stays where it is now, the rate will go to 8 percent, and the payment to $724. John cannot afford this payment.

Using the formula developed in the first article of this series, John convinces the servicer that he can afford no more than $580 a month for the next three years. The modification keeps the rate at 5 percent and adjusts the payment to $580. Over three years, the difference between the affordable payment and the scheduled payments with an 8 percent rate sums to $5,190, which at 6 percent has a present value of $4,337. This is the cost of the payment subsidy to the owner of the mortgage.

In addition to the payment subsidy, there is a balance subsidy because keeping the loan at 5 percent allows a more rapid pay-down of the balance. The subsidy is equal to the difference between what the balance would have been at the end of the contract period had there been no modification, and what it will be with the modification.

Over the three years, the balance subsidy amounts to $3,670 with a present value of $3,067. The present value of the payment and balance subsidies combined is $7,404. This is the cost of contract modification to the investor without an offset from appreciation.

The net cost of foreclosure to the investor is the estimated expense of foreclosure less the equity in the borrower’s house, which is available to offset foreclosure expenses. Equity is the difference between the estimated proceeds from a foreclosure sale and the mortgage balance.

If net foreclosure costs in my example are $5,000, this is lower than the $7,404 cost of modification, and the servicer will opt for foreclosure. But factoring a share of future appreciation into the equation can change the result.

Suppose the servicer estimates that John’s house may increase in value by 2 percent, 3 percent and 4 percent over the next three years. On these assumptions, the appreciation will be $9,262, with a present value of $7,740. Using this number, a 50 percent share of the appreciation would reduce the net cost of modification to $3,534, which is lower than the cost of foreclosure.

Borrowers with payment problems who have a lot of equity in their homes have the most to gain from pledging a share in future appreciation. Such borrowers are otherwise unlikely to qualify for a contract modification because foreclosure will be less costly to the investor.

Borrowers in trouble, however, can’t assume that the servicer will take the initiative in proposing any modification deal, let alone a more complex variety that includes a pledge of future appreciation. The culture of loan servicing discourages such initiatives because they raise costs and do not generate any additional revenue.

Troubled borrowers with the best chances of negotiating a contract modification are those who are persistent and who provide the information required to support their case. If they have significant equity in their home, this should include a proposal to share future appreciation with the investor, including reasonable estimates of what that might be worth. The more of the servicer’s job they do, the better their chances of success.

The writer is professor of finance emeritus at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania. Comments and questions can be left at www.mtgprofessor.com.

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Copyright 2007 Jack Guttentag

Mortgage rates are stuck just above 6 percent, but the key indicator of anxiety, the 10-year T-note, fell into the 4.30s. The drop was brisk following news of deepening weakness in housing and credit.

Stocks are holding a key level, in Dow terms, 13,500. That market recovered once this week on the rumor that things were so bad that the Fed would cut its rate before its Halloween meeting. A Fed panic would be good news?

The resilience in stocks worldwide, and energy ($92 oil is the same constant-dollar price that killed us in 1980), and the euro (at $1.44 apiece a collector’s item, and making it rather difficult to make a pfennig selling Euro exports) has two sources: great faith that the U.S. economy is no longer necessary to the world, and an ocean of Asian-exporter and petro cash still looking for investments. That ocean is still rising, the supply of valid investments shrinking by the hour.

One of the world’s leading investments 2000-2007, eagerly pursued by that ocean: the now-infamous CDO, or collateralized debt obligation, at least $1.2 trillion manufactured and sold. Of course, that was the aggregate purchase price; they are worth somewhat less today.

How much less may be inferred from the dismal results at Merrill Lynch: a $9 billion quarterly loss (estimated three weeks ago at half that), more coming. Merrill was the last big manufacturer of CDOs, shoveling them out clear into July, and got caught with work in process: in-house CDO inventory was $32 billion 90 days ago, now $15 billion; mortgage-related securities down from $41 billion to $21 billion. How much was sold, how much written-down or reclassified (heh-heh), Merrill won’t say. Why Merrill’s CEO and board have not removed themselves … oh, you know, stock market people.

Ultimate CDO losses will be rather larger than thought. Half?

The Treasury-assisted costume to cover $400 billion in SIVs (structured investment vehicles) is Freddie Krueger dressed up as a nice-looking kid. If these things liquidate, half at least are dead-loss, and would begin a cascade to liquidate similar assets. The failed dress-up is now an embarrassment to Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson. He was leader of Goldman Sachs, like his predecessor Robert Rubin, and should have all the information and skills to handle this credit meltdown. However, Rubin, the best since Hamilton, was a financial brain surgeon; Paulson seems a determined pounder, thus far unencumbered by insight.

Paulson is also trapped inside the Bush administration, which is certain that markets are the solution to all economic crises; is opposed to financial bailout in any form; is unaware that national power flows from economic strength, not military; and is preoccupied by trying to bail itself out of Iraq while trying to pick a fight with Iran.

As for housing, September sales of existing homes fell by double the forecast, which anybody at street level could have told you. These sales are measured by closings of contracts written in the months before, and the mortgage crunch did not bite until mid-August. You should assume that October will underperform its forecast, also; September was the worst contract-writing month since that one in 2001.

However, perverse good news: At street level it is clear that psychological damage is worse than actual loan-denial. In our local market, that shock began to wear off last week. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a false-bottom in November or December sales, a shock-rebound, and then a resumption of the grinding decline.

Everyone should ignore the reports of new-home sales: they are based on contracts-written, not closed, and the cancellation rate is running 30-50 percent. Builders are not “clearing inventory”; they are still building it and then dumping it at market-wrecking discounts — more than 10 percent of the gross revenue for some. Nothing would help housing more than the failure/merger/mothball of as many national builders as possible.

Bigger than the Fed on Wednesday (even a half-point surprise): October payroll news next Friday. Employment gains are the only thing holding mortgages above 6 percent.

Lou Barnes is a mortgage broker and nationally syndicated columnist based in Boulder, Colo. He can be reached at lbarnes@boulderwest.com.

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Copyright 2007 Lou Barnes

It seems like something as tough as your concrete or asphalt driveway would be able to easily stand up to something as small as a drop of water. But the effects of rain and snow, especially if that moisture gets into cracks in the surface and then freezes, can do a surprising amount of damage to a driveway, walkway, wall, or other concrete, masonry or asphalt surface.

So, before winter hits again this year, fight back by sealing those porous surfaces against water intrusion. There are a number of sealers that are formulated specifically for this purpose, and they are easy to apply without special equipment.

CONCRETE AND MASONRY SEALERS

For a tough finish on concrete, you’ll want to use a specific concrete sealer. Not intended for brick, block, stone and other masonry, concrete waterproofing sealers penetrate deep into the surface of the concrete — up to one inch of penetration on previously unsealed concrete — and forms a very tough barrier against moisture.

Some sealers are formulated for specific applications. If you have a concrete slab, for example, that is subject to a lot of grease and oil on a regular basis, selecting a sealer that is specifically made for that will greatly simplify your cleaning. There are also sealers formulated for underwater concrete, such as ponds and pools, for sanitary surfaces, and other applications.

For most masonry surfaces — brick, stone or ceramic tile — a masonry sealer is the proper choice. Depending on the type of masonry sealer, some will also work to seal concrete slabs. Masonry sealers will penetrate into the pores in the surface of the masonry and seal them against moisture. The sealer also helps to protect against buildups of dirt, oil, grease and markings from automobile tires. Masonry sealers are not intended for use on asphalt, glazed ceramic tile or on wooden surfaces.

Sealers also come in different surface “sheens,” depending on the look you want. While all of them are clear, some types dry to a completely flat sheen and leave the surface looking unsealed. Other types dry to a glossy “wet” look, and the depth of the gloss increases with each application. There are also semi-gloss sheens that are in between flat and glossy. The choice of how glossy you want the finished surface is typically one of personal preference; however, with some types of sealers the glossier the product is the more abrasion-resistant properties it has.

APPLYING CONCRETE AND MASONRY SEALERS

As with the application of most coatings, you need to start with a surface that is clean and dry. That may be as simple as a good sweeping or blowing off of the surface with a leaf blower, or it may involve pressure washing or spot scrubbing to clean off heavily soiled areas. If you do end up having to use water or other liquid cleaners, be sure that the surface is allowed to dry completely before applying the sealers — application over a wet surface will almost guarantee that the sealer will fail.

If efflorescence is visible — a chalky white coating on the masonry or concrete that occurs as salts leach out of the cement during drying — that needs to be removed as well. You can clean efflorescence with a diluted mixture of muriatic acid, but most sealers require that the acid then be neutralized — a 50/50 mixture of water and ammonia is a common neutralizer.

The sealer can usually be applied using a brush, roller or spray. Pump-up garden sprayers work well for some types of sealers, as do some types of paint sprayers. Some sealers are formulated for a single-coat application, and others require a buildup of multiple coats.

ASPHALT SEALERS

Like concrete and masonry, asphalt is also subject to the effects of wear and tear as well as the detrimental effect of heat, rainwater and freeze/thaw cycles. Left alone, the asphalt will begin to deteriorate over time, and the periodic application of an asphalt sealer will help prevent the much more expensive alternative of having to remove and replace the asphalt completely if it begins to break down.

You can apply asphalt sealers yourself if desired. Large cracks need to be patched first, using a cold-application asphalt mix or an asphalt crack sealer. After that, the surface needs to be cleaned, and then allowed to dry if necessary. Depending on the size of the area, the sealer can then be applied using a special mop, a rough-surface roller, or an asphalt brush.

For this project, you might also want to consider having the work done by a company that specializes in asphalt sealing. Get two bids from reputable, licensed, local companies, and remember that the low bid is not necessarily the best bid. The bids should include patching any large cracks, as well as a complete cleaning of the asphalt prior to application of the sealer.

Sealers are available at some home centers and hardware stores, but your best bet for expert advice and a wide selection of products is to check with a store that specializes in masonry or asphalt products. Each product will have specific uses, application methods, weather and temperature application restrictions, and safety precautions, so be sure you carefully read and follow ALL of the manufacturer’s specific recommendations.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.

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What’s your opinion? Send your Letter to the Editor to opinion@inman.com.

Copyright 2007 Inman News

(This is Part 2 of a two-part series. Read Part 1, “Inventors scramble to electrify America.”)

The American landscape was forever changed by the arrival of electricity in the late 1890s. What’s surprising, though, is how little it’s changed since. To a time traveler from a century ago, our cars, planes and Blackberries would surely border on the miraculous, but the old wooden power poles that march down our streets would look perfectly familiar.

As we noted last time, America’s electrical distribution system grew out of an earlier technology — the telegraph, whose infrastructure was already largely in place by the 1860s. And while rural areas might have just one set of telegraph lines paralleling the local railroad track, by the century’s end major cities were already bristling with telegraph poles carrying stacks of 10 or more crossarms and scores of cables.

Given the rush to electrify urban areas, the basic infrastructure of the telegraph network was borrowed for electrical distribution as well, with one difference: Unlike low-voltage telegraph wires (and later on telephone lines), alternating current power lines carried lethally high voltages and therefore had to be strung high above street level, on poles with heights of 30 feet, 40 feet, or even more. As electrification advanced from cities into suburbs and finally into rural areas, the wooden power pole became a familiar and even welcome symbol of progress. Amazingly, this same basic infrastructure — little changed from its roots of 150 years ago — can still be found on most any rural or urban street in America.

The splintery, weather-beaten poles that march drunkenly down our streets are so ubiquitous that most of us no longer notice them, but they’re not invisible to everyone. Europeans, for one, stare in disbelief at the chaotic tangles of wire and wood that clutter our streets, no doubt wondering how the most advanced nation on earth could make do with an almost comically primitive-looking network of electrical distribution.

Ironically, the very fact that the United States pioneered electrification is one reason we’re saddled with such an antiquated infrastructure. Nations that once lagged far behind the United States in electrification have since benefitted from the leapfrog effect, which bypasses first-generation technologies in favor of those that have had more time to evolve. Exurban China, for example, which only began to be widely electrified after 1950, now has a modern distribution system that’s substantially underground. What systems remain overhead are carried on simple and maintenance-free concrete poles that blend in with the streetscape.

Europe was electrified only slightly later than the United States, but was served by the fact that it didn’t have America’s abundant supply of timber. Hence, European streets generally have power lines carried on concrete poles, with notably neater results.

A century and a half have passed since Samuel Morse’s fateful decision to put his telegraph lines overhead rather than under the ground, and ever since, those notably anti-aesthetic forces of economics and expedience have largely ensured that overhead is where they’ll stay. So it’s a good thing that all those half-decayed poles, rusty transformers and tangles of wire have become invisible. To us, anyway.

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What’s your opinion? Send your Letter to the Editor to opinion@inman.com.

Copyright 2007 Arrol Gellner

Question: I have a rental unit that I have leased out with only a $200 security deposit. I inadvertently rented to a smoker with a small dog. I was aware of the dog, but not the smoking. The tenant seems to be a chain smoker — when I enter the unit to do repairs it smells like an ashtray. He never leaves the door open and the windows are always closed. He hardly lets his dog out and I also noticed that his dog pees on the carpet. I feel that by the end of his lease the carpet will be totally trashed and the smell unacceptable. The deposit is not enough to cover the replacement of new carpets. In the meantime, is there anything I can do?

James McKinley, an attorney for landlords, replies:

Since neither the dog nor the smoking is prohibited by the lease, there is little that you can do at this time. However, in order to avoid further damage to your property, you should give your tenant notice that you do not intend to renew the lease 30 days before the lease expires (or a longer notice if required). After you give your tenant notice of termination of the tenancy, you are required to notify your tenant, in writing, of his option to request an initial inspection of the premises and his right to be present at the inspection. You should also consider meeting with the tenant prior to the end of the lease to give your tenant an opportunity to remedy the identified deficiencies, in order to avoid deductions from the security deposit. After the inspection, you are required to give your tenant a statement specifying repairs or cleaning that need to be completed in order to avoid deductions from the security deposit. After the tenant vacates, you should to give an itemized statement showing how the security deposit was applied to rent, cleaning and/or damages, as required by state or local law. The tenant is still responsible for the costs of cleaning or repairs not covered by the security deposit, but you will have to commence a small claims action or general civil action to recover those damages.

Steven Kellman, an attorney for tenants, replies:

While you are bound by the lease in allowing the tenant to live there with his dog and his cigarettes, you are not forced to allow the continuing damage to your property. Tenants are entitled to many rights, but they must also act responsibly to earn those rights. I would suggest considering taking a course of action now rather than waiting for the tenant to move out. Pet owners and smokers must conduct themselves in such a manner so as not to cause material damage or create such a significant interference with the quiet enjoyment of the other tenants at the property. If this tenant allows his dog to damage the carpet and if he smokes in such a manner as to cause “smoke damage” to the unit, you may demand that he stop both activities right away. This is in the best interests of your property and the neighbors who do not want to be impacted with offensive smells or increased rent to cover damage costs.

You may view the tenant’s behavior as a breach of the part of your lease that requires the tenant to maintain the unit without damaging it. In that case, you would give him a legal notice to cure that behavior thus saving the property and his tenancy. If you feel the damage is significant, you may then try to view the conduct as a nuisance, which may result in a termination of the tenancy with a different legal notice. In either case, the appropriate legal notices can be tricky so advice from an experienced local tenant-landlord attorney is recommended before taking such action. If you are forced to wait to the end of the lease, you should be sure to terminate the lease without renewal and handle the deposit as James advises.

Property manager Griswold replies:

The attorneys seem to have covered what to do at the end of the lease, but I think you are also asking what can you do now and I would like to give you an option. While it isn’t popular with many tenants, you do have the legal right upon proper notice to increase the security deposit from the current $200 to an amount that would be more likely to cover your anticipated costs of repairing the damage that may be caused by the pet and/or the tenant. Make sure that you comply with any local restrictions or maximum amounts, but in most jurisdictions you can simply raise the security deposit upon lease renewal or by giving written notice if the tenant is on a month-to-month rental agreement. The purpose of the security deposit is not just to have funds to cover damages but it can also be an effective incentive for tenants to maintain the property during their tenancy as well as make efforts to leave the property in good condition. Most tenants really want and need those funds when they move. If you ever want to see what damage can be done to a rental unit, rent your property to a tenant and don’t charge a security deposit or, better yet, offer a $99 move-in special!

This column on issues confronting tenants and landlords is written by property manager Robert Griswold, author of “Property Management for Dummies” and co-author of “Real Estate Investing for Dummies,” and San Diego attorneys Steven R. Kellman, director of the Tenant’s Legal Center, and James McKinley, principal in a law firm representing landlords.

E-mail your questions to Rental Q&A at rgriswold.inman@retodayradio.com.

Questions should be brief and cannot be answered individually.

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What’s your opinion? Send your Letter to the Editor to opinion@inman.com.

Copyright 2007 Inman News